We’d like to send out a big THANK YOU to everyone who came out to our first community discussion at Climber’s Corner last week. We had great turnout and a productive conversation, with proof that the Ontario climbing community is dedicated to ensuring we’re following best practices and building a strong reputation as climbers.
Meeting minutes can be found at here for those of you who could not make it:
Rock climbing access at Devil’s Glen (DG) is facing steep environmental, social, and logistical challenges.
In response, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers would like to invite you to a community discussion about the important issues that are facing our beloved crag. Thursday, July 11th, we’ll be meeting at Climbers Corner in Collingwood from 7-9pm.
The topics we’ll be discussing include:
1. The history and current state of rock climbing access at DG 2. DG’s primary access threats 3. What climbers are seeing when they visit DG 4. What we can do, as a community, to improve access 5. The formation of the Beaver Valley Climber’s Collective
So, come out for a few pitches and some productive conversation about the important issues that are facing our beloved Devil’s Glen!
Lions Head and Devil’s Glen climbing access is AT RISK.
The OAC is currently in talks with Ontario Parks to address their concerns regarding the impact of climbers in these areas. As these sensitive discussions progress, please continue to be great ambassadors for our sport by minimizing your impact at all Ontario crags. Steps you can take include:
Avoid visiting these crags in large groups.
Please visit other areas when possible. Ontario is home to many great climbing areas. Please do your part by spreading the love to other, less traveled areas!
Continue to practice good crag etiquette and leave no trace ethics. This also applies to human waste.
Be proactive in communicating best practices to other climbers.
Do not visit these crags without the appropriate level of skill.
Reminder: Lions Head is an advanced crag and it is not suitable for new climbers.
Every year, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers holds an Annual General Meeting. We appreciate Conservation Halton’s support in hosting us at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area this past June 1st, 2019. The short formal portion of the meeting allows OAC members to elect Directors for the coming year (as legally mandated). Afterwards, the AGM gives us the opportunity to connect with the membership in a loosely structured Q&A discussion session.
Discussions during this year’s Q&A included: * Why were glue-in bolts chosen for the Rattlesnake project? * Does the OAC need help with (other) bolting projects? * When is the OAC going to start buying crags? * What are the different ways volunteers can support the OAC? * Why does the OAC not provide funding to individuals engaged in retro-bolting? * Does the OAC have policies in place about who can bolt? * Are records being kept of hardware specs when bolting/retro-bolting is being done? * Will more 2019 OAC calendars be available?
Announcing the Rattlesnake Spring Fling! We’ve been doing our best to keep things under wraps, but it’s time we spill the beans. What we had been previously advertising as a Rattlesnake Crag Stewardship Day is actually going to be the OAC’s first Rattlesnake Spring Fling — our kick off to the start of the climbing season!
Come join us on Saturday June 1st. This event is open for all climbers, and clinics are offered for anyone who’s never climbed outside before. If you want to learn how to transition from the gym to the crag, this is the perfect opportunity for you!
Come meet us, your advocates for access to all climbing in Ontario, and partake in our Annual General Meeting.
We’ll also be unveiling a fresh makeover to the Rattlesnake area with several freshly bolted routes from 5.5 – 5.10!
It’ll be a day of climbing, learning, fun, and celebrating all Ontario has to offer.
Rock Talk Mentorship Series Clinic: Communicating to Encourage Lasting Change FREE
You probably care about Ontario climbing. More and more people are leaving the gym and going to the crags. This is an incredible opportunity for us to pass along our values and traditions to the next generation. We have power to shape the behaviour of new climbers so that they respect the space and climb safely.
From discouraging guitars and boomboxes to encouraging safe anchor setups, we will discuss and practice communication styles that have been shown to be helpful in changing people’s behaviour. There is a good chance you already have a good array of tools and techniques that work well for you. This is a chance to hear about one more and then you can decide if you want to use it. The clinic is based in behaviour change science and represents some of the most cutting-edge approaches to encouraging behaviour change.
Clinic time: noon – 1pm (before the AGM)
Intro to Rock $40/person
Open to all ages and abilities, this is a great opportunity to experience real rock climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Certified guides and all necessary climbing equipment will be provided, no experience necessary.
All On the Rocks Climbing Guides clinics taught by professional climber Leslie Timms (owner of On the Rocks) and PCGI certified guides Adam Mitchell and Julie Weisz.
Face your fear of falling on lead, become a better lead belayer and more efficient climber in this course catered to current lead climbers. Learn about outdoor lead fall hazards and proper lead belay methods in a variety of scenarios. Learn about fear management and how to overcome the mental hurdles of lead climbing. This course will offer a variety of tips to help you become a more confident and safe sport climber, so you can take your climbing to the next level.
All On the Rocks Climbing Guides clinics taught by professional climber, Leslie Timms (owner of On the Rocks) and PCGI certified guides Adam Mitchell and Julie Weisz.
This 1/2 day clinic is being offered by ONE AXE Pursuits. The clinic will review the skills needed to make a safe transition from sport climbing in the gym to sport climbing outdoors, including: how to safely lower off a climb; stick clipping the fist bolt; stick clipping past a crux on the climb; outdoor safety hazards; and the outdoor climbers code of conduct. Clinic participants must be indoor lead climbing certified.
Clinic times: 8:30am – 12:30pm & 1:30pm – 5:30pm Spots Available: 8 people per clinic To register, email firstname.lastname@example.org
The OAC is pleased to be presenting the Southern Ontario Ice Climbing Festival! If you’re an avid ice climber or someone who’s never tried it before but think kicking crampons and swinging ice axes into frozen water could be your climbing destiny, then this fest’s for you!
We’ve also got all the really good stuff like cool prizes, hot meals, and icy cold drinks in the small town of Maynooth, Ontario. Only a hop, skip, and a three hour jump from Toronto, you’ll definitely want to bring your friends because this is a weekend to remember (and carpool karaoke is better with a friend). More of the lone wolf ice climbing type? We’ll have tons of clinics and belay buddies ready for you.
Mark your calendars for February 8 – 10, 2019 and keep an eye out for registration opening in a couple weeks. Clinic spots fill up fast, so you want to stay glued to @soicefest or the SOIce Facebook page for all the latest and be ready to pounce when the big announcement comes.
The 2018 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival is THIS weekend! We’re excited to celebrate Ontario climbing with you in the year’s biggest party. We have a great line up of clinics, vendors, and raffle prizes in store — all capped off with a night of live entertainment from the lovely Ariana Gillis. What more could you ask for?
Monika Wii on Bear on a Wire by Will Tam
Last year we came close to our 300 person max capacity, and we recommend registering now to secure your spot. Climbers from all over Ontario — and even outside the province — will be arriving to partake in the festivities. Your $44 registration fee covers camping, food, and live entertainment, plus all proceeds go directly toward maintaining open climbing access in Ontario. Help protect the lands you climb on WHILE enjoying them!
Don’t hesitate, get your name on the list now — Sign ups after noon on Friday must be done on-site and the price will be raised to $45.
Are you interested in helping us run the Beaver Valley Climbing Festival? We’re in need of a volunteer coordinator who can help manage our efforts. If you’re great at directing, have good organizational skills, and are enthusiastic about climbing, we want to hear from you!
Please contact email@example.com by June 9th if you’re interested in taking on this task — we’re looking for someone who is excited about seeing BVCF continue to be the number one climbing celebration Ontario has to offer.
The OAC invites all members to partake in our 2018 Annual General Meeting on June 28, 2018. It’s a great opportunity to ask questions about the organization and our on-going projects, in addition to sharing your input on the future direction of the OAC. We’ll be holding the election for board membership, talking about the past year’s accomplishments, and discussing what’s on the horizon.
The meeting will be held at Joe Rockhead’s Indoor Rock Climbing Gym (29 Fraser Ave, Toronto, ON) on Thursday June 28th at 7:00 PM. There will be a discounted climbing day pass ($10+hst) for all attendees! OAC membership is required for the discount. Come climb and stay for the evening!
To be eligible to vote at the AGM, one is required to be a member of the Ontario Access Coalition. To allow for the processing of new members, please ensure applications are submitted prior to June 11th. Please visit our membership page at https://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/join/ for further details.
The OAC is very interested in increasing its capacity by attracting new ideas, leadership, and energy. At this meeting, we will elect three members to the Board of Directors (for a two-year term each). As always, we are also looking for portfolio managers and general volunteers. While members can be nominated to the Board at the AGM, any nominations submitted by June 11th will have their profiles distributed to the membership in advance. This will facilitate a structured voting process. Interested members are encouraged to contact the OAC in advance.
Potential board members should have:
An interest in (learning about) outdoor climbing access issues in Ontario
A varied skill set with a self-starter attitude
A positive, proactive team-based approach to problem solving
As a board member the individual will:
Attend monthly board meetings
Lead projects and/or access portfolios
Participate in developing and executing the OAC’s strategic goals
Further details will be provided to members 14 days prior to the AGM. If you do not receive notification by email, please send us a note ( firstname.lastname@example.org ).
Calling all creatives! We’re looking to bring new energy to this year’s Beaver Valley Climbing Festival with an update to our festival logo. Do you have ideas for a new way to represent the BVCF and celebrate Ontario climbing?
The winner will receive admission for TWO to the festival and a $250 MEC gift card — so that means you and your belayer can get in for free! Plus you’ll get recognition for redesigning a logo which will soon be recognized by the entire Ontario climbing community.
Here’s what we need from you:
PREFERRED: Vector eps file (such as an Adobe Illustrator eps) with all fonts converted to outlines. This file format is preferred because vector-based art can be resized without degrading shape or colour.
Also acceptable: Raster image file (such as an Adobe Photoshop file). The logo must be a minimum of 2″ wide or 2″ high (whichever is the larger proportion) at 300 dpi. The image file may be delivered in any of the following formats: psd, tiff, png, or jpeg.
Ideally, two separate files should be submitted:
Colour logo. 4-color (CMYK) logo is preferred if possible
Single colour version (black & white) with no tints or screens (i.e., 100% black, no gray)
Submissions will be accepted from now through July 8th 2018. Please send your entries to email@example.com ‘BVCF Logo Contest Submission’ in the subject line. We’re looking forward to seeing what you’ve got!
(Post updated on June 3 to include new MEC prize and new deadline.)