Access to climbing at Lion’s Head has been threatened for several years. Recently the MNR has begun recording cliff face data using drone flights to assess climber impact. Additionally, the OAC was made aware that camping in inappropriate areas has increased, further threatening an already tenuous position.

On July 23, 2016 we tried a new approach to make climbers aware of the potential increase of this threat. We posted a meme and heard from many passionate climbers who felt the post was inappropriate. We now realize that it was out of line for the OAC, and we sincerely apologize. For future posts, we will strive to act as champions of the Ontario climbing community in a more respectful and less contentious way.

During the next few weeks the OAC will continue its meme campaign to educate local climbers as well as local citizens. The challenges presented to the Lion’s Head climbing community are significant. The OAC cannot achieve its goal of securing access to one of North America’s most beautiful climbing areas without your support. It is our hope and belief that we can move forward together to attain this goal.

EDIT: Climbing has been re-opened as of July 29, 2016. Climbers must sign the Code of Conduct before climbing at Bon Echo.

Bon Echo Code of Conduct

We are passing along the following message from the Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto Section.

The Superintendent of Bon Echo Provincial Park has informed the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section that starting immediately all climbing has been suspended until further notice.

The suspension was a result of a recent incident, and no one was hurt. The board of the Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section and the Bon Echo Committee are collaborating closely with the Park to open access as soon as possible.

Weekends at the Bon Echo hut are subsequently canceled until further notice.

Until the matter is resolved please respect the wishes of the Park and refrain from climbing at Bon Echo. We will let you know as soon as the suspension is lifted.

We appreciate your cooperation and we look forward to climbing at Bon Echo again soon. If you have any questions please contact either the Board of Directors (membership@alpineclubtoronto.ca) or the Bon Echo committee (bonecho@alpineclubtoronto.ca).

Sincerely,
The Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section Board of Directors

The second Grey/Bruce Rock Climbing and Bouldering Forum took place on May 20 in Walkerton, Ontario. The forum aims to promote a coordinated approach to rock climbing and bouldering as recreational activities, where appropriate, in the Grey/Bruce region. Participating agencies at the second meeting included the Alpine Club of Canada, County of Bruce, Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry (Owen Sound, Midhurst District, Peterborough), the Ontario Access Coalition, Ontario Parks, Parks Canada, and Regional Tourism Organization 7.

Building off the momentum of the first meeting, the second meeting focused on the following discussion points:

1. The way access to climbing areas is being framed in current/forthcoming Ontario rock climbing guides.
2. The thriving climbing gym culture in the GTA and southern Ontario and how it will likely increase climber visits to Grey/Bruce.
3. Climbing activity management plan discussions for areas that will be developing new/revised management plans over the next several years (eg. Lion’s Head, Devils Glen).
4. Bolt usage and replacement at Ontario climbing areas.
5. Adding signage at selected Grey/Bruce climbing areas to promote environmental stewardship.
6. Putting into action a sustainable parking plan for Devils Glen.
7. Promotion of Grey/Bruce communities at this year’s Beaver Valley Climbing Festival.
8. Ontario Parks Lion’s Head cliff-face analysis to begin this summer with the use of drones.

There was also ample time for informal Q & A between managers and OAC representatives. The continued relationship-building between all agencies is positive. The OAC views the second meeting as a success and looks forward to continued collaboration and meetings with members of all of the participating agencies.

As always, stay vigilant about being great stewards of the climbing environment. If you or someone you know needs a Leave No Trace refresher see our post from the fall.

The 2016 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival is coming soon. Here is our list of clinics, which are included with the festival price: a great deal! There are clinics for both new and less-new climbers, so look through the list, see if you are interested in any of them, and sign up with the clinic providers.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/bvcf2016-clinics