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Devil’s Glen Update

By Access, News
Allow Climbing at Devil's Glen graphic depicting a raised fist holding a quickdraw. designed by Michelle Ang.
Graphic design credit goes to @michyllica ❤️

IMPORTANT ACCESS UPDATE ⚠️

There have been 10 signs posted at Devil’s Glen (6 at the top of the cliff, and 4 at the bottom of the cliff). The signs state ‘Protection Area / No Rock Climbing Here to Next Sign’, and were first noticed on Thursday May 11.

The signs span the climbs between Morning Star and the easy way down on climbers’ right, only on Ontario Parks managed land. Routes from Nutcracker to the west are not affected and not in park boundaries.

The Ontario Parks signs appeared without warning. Late Friday May 12, the OAC received both voicemail and email responses from our inquiries to Ontario Parks confirming that the new signage at Devil’s Glen is official, and was placed by their regional ecologist.

This is extremely disappointing. The OAC has been in regular meetings with Ontario Parks. We have repeatedly requested science-based evidence supporting any potential closures, and were informed by OP that a list of affected routes would be provided to us prior to any changes. We have received no such information.

Ontario Parks has repeatedly stated that they wish to work “collaboratively with the ON climbing community” — but these recent events run to the contrary. We are taking this violation of the terms of our proposed communications framework very seriously. Unilateral action of this nature is deeply concerning for the climbing community, and should be of grave concern for ALL recreation-based user groups.

We’re in the process of building a strategy to counter the recent closure by Ontario Parks of climbing routes at Devil’s Glen. We’ve requested the results of the environmental survey which Ontario Parks based their decision off of, and they have told us we can expect to receive the results before the end of the month.

Here’s what you can expect from us over the next two weeks:

  • We’ll be sending out a survey on the economic impact of climbing in Ontario. Keep an eye open for it and be sure to fill it out!
  • Patagonia Toronto will be hosting a screening of Stone Locals on May 25th — and we’ll be there! Come visit our table and talk to us in person.
  • We’ll be holding a town hall in early June (date TBD). This will be an important meeting for everyone concerned about the future of climbing at Devil’s Glen.

What can YOU do right NOW?

Stay up to date as we share news. Join the OAC if you’re not a member yet! And help us SPREAD THE WORD. Repost and share our messages to your socials. Tell your friends. Make sure *everyone* you climb with is aware of what’s going on.

Because this goes beyond Devil’s Glen. This has the potential to affect climbing access throughout all of Ontario.

#AllowClimbingAtDG

2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Available Now!

By Fundraisers
Marisa Chung on ‘Red Line Fever’ at Mount Nemo
Photo by Will Tam @willtam85

Fresh off the presses – the 2023 Ontario Crags Calendar has arrived! Featuring local climbers shot by local photographers, the OAC calendar is a tribute to everything Ontario climbing has to offer.  With a mix of climbers, crags, and disciplines featured, this is our biggest fundraiser and celebration of climbing across the province!

Calendars are $20, plus $8 for shipping via Canada Post*.  All proceeds from calendar sales go toward promoting, advocating for, and maintaining open access all across the province.

Get your copy now before they sell out! 

Want to save on shipping costs?
You can also find copies for sale at the following Ontario locations:

Basecamp – both Bloor West and Queen West locations
Boulderz – both Etobicoke and Junction locations
Climbers Rock
Grand River Rocks – both Kitchener and Waterloo locations
Guelph Grotto
Junction Climbing and J2 Climbing
Ontario Resoles
The Core Climbing
Toprock Climbing
True North Climbing

We will also be tabling at the following holiday pop-up shops!

December 3rd – The Hub Mississauga
December 10th – Aspire Vaughan
December 17th – Basecamp Queen West 

Don’t see your gym listed?  Have them contact jessica.best@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca if they’re interested in selling copies!

NOTE: We are currently only shipping within Canada.

2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation

2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation

$28.00

Buy now
2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation x2

2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation x2

$50.00

Buy now
2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation x3

2023 Ontario Crags Calendar Donation x3

$75.00

Buy now
*Please allow 3 business days for us to ship your order.  Calendars will be shipped via Canada Post in untracked cardboard envelopes so as to protect them.
Shipping for the first calendar costs $8 to account for the price of the envelope + mailing by weight.  Up to 3 calendars can be shipped in one envelope with incremental weight costs.
If you wish to order four or more copies of the calendar to be shipped together, please contact jessica.best@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca!

OAC 2022 AGM Recording

By Access, Community

Thank you to everyone who tuned into our 2022 Virtual AGM last week!

Congratulations to Patrick Lam, Mike Makischuk, and Randy Kielbasciwicz on their re-elections to the board! Also a big thank you goes out to Joshua Leyte-Jammu, the recipient of the 2022 OAC Service Award, for his work as OAC treasurer.

As always, we are looking for more volunteers to join us in ramping up efforts for the next year. If you are interested in getting involved, please reach out to info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca for more information!

As presented at our AGM, our financial statements have been made available here:

If you were unable to attend this year’s AGM, the recording is available here:

Submit your photos for the 2023 Ontario Crags Calendar NOW!

By Community

It’s that time of year again!  Our call for photo submissions for the 2023 OAC Ontario Crags Calendar is now OPEN!!

The Ontario Crags Calendar aims to celebrate and highlight the wide variety of climbing that Ontario has to offer. We want to showcase everything from as many different crags, seasons, and climbers as possible — ICE, SPORT, TRAD and BOULDERING are all honoured here.  Let’s celebrate the diversity of our province and our community!  Valid photo submissions must have LANDSCAPE orientation (i.e. horizontal), and be of climbers at Ontario crags only (of course!).  In order to meet print standards, full size images must be clear and at least 8.5″x11″ at 300 dpi.

Submissions do not need to be dated from this year, but they DO need to showcase your love for Ontario climbing.  So make the most of this tail end of the season, or take some time to venture down memory lane and rediscover some forgotten gems!

The Crags Calendar helps us raise awareness and funds in support of Ontario access.  Please consider donating a photo!  Send your best shots to submissions@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca by WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 2ND for a chance to be featured.  Chosen entrants will receive a free copy of the calendar, credit complete with name and website, and a little slice of local fame 😉

Please see additional rules of submission here:

Save the Date: AGM to be held November 8th!

By Community, Events

The OAC Annual General Meeting will be held Tuesday, November 8th, at 7PM! We will once again be holding our AGM virtually.

This is a great opportunity to ask questions about our organization and to share input on our future direction. We’ll also be holding the election for board membership, talking about recent developments, and speaking about what’s on the horizon.

If you would like to run as a candidate for the board of directors, please submit your bio to info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca. Those who submit their candidacy before October 21 will be included in our formal email announcement. Miss the window? That’s okay, candidates are able to declare their application all the way through to our live meeting!

Details for the virtual meeting will be announced October 25 via official email to all OAC members. Hope to see you all there!

A Call to Action: GRCA Board Elections

By Access, Community

Do you live in the Region of Waterloo or another municipality touching the Grand River Conservation Authority (GRCA)? If so, the upcoming municipal elections are an opportunity for you to  advocate for pro-climbing policies. Waterloo has the greatest number of seats on the GRCA Board, but you still have influence  even if you’re as far west as Hamilton, or as far east as Halton.

The GRCA Board Elections

The Grand River Conservation Authority controls a number of cliffs, including those at Rockwood and Elora. The OAC has been working to establish climbing access on GRCA land, but we have not been able to convince GRCA staff to work with us. However, the staff do not get the final say. The GRCA Board, which is made up mostly of elected municipal officials, is responsible for matters of governance.  While the Board usually defers  to the wishes of the staff, these elected officials are ultimately answerable to you, the voting public. So you, too, can have a say in how these cliffs are managed.

The GRCA Board has 26 members, 10 of which are appointed by Waterloo Region. Guelph and Brantford each appoint 2 members, while Hamilton and Halton each appoint 1 member. Outlying towns and counties appoint the other 10 members. 

Ontario municipal elections take place on October 24, 2022.

Members will be re-appointed next election, but you can look at who is currently on the Board for your municipality to get an idea of what’s likely to happen next term. Here is the current composition of the Board, so that you can check what your representation is.

Waterloo Regional Council candidates:

https://www.regionofwaterloo.ca/en/regional-government/2022-regional-candidate-listing.aspx

Current GRCA Board members: 

Guelph candidates:

https://vote.guelph.ca/candidates/registered-candidates/

Current GRCA Board members: 

  • Bob Bell (not seeking re-election)
  • Cathy Downer (cathy.downer@guelph.ca)

Brantford candidates:

https://brantfordvotes.brantford.ca/en/candidates/candidates.aspx

Current GRCA Board members:

Hamilton candidates:

https://www.hamilton.ca/municipal-election/election-information/certified-candidates

Current GRCA Board member:

Halton local elections links (choose your local municipality):

https://www.halton.ca/The-Region/Regional-Council-and-Committees/Municipal-Elections

Current GRCA Board member:

The full list of GRCA Board members is available at https://www.grandriver.ca/en/who-we-are/GRCA-Board-and-Administration.aspx.

What can I do?

This is a once-in-4-years opportunity for you, as a climber, to open discussions with your candidates for elected office as they seek election or re-election. Turnout is often low in municipal elections and the number of voters is small, so if you live in the right city you have a disproportionately valuable chance to gain the attention of your elected officials.  Let them know that open access to our public lands is an issue that matters to you!

Here are some suggested points you can discuss with your candidates for Regional Council (Waterloo Region) or for your municipal councils:

  • Are you engaged with what goes on with the Grand River Conservation Authority? Have you served on the GRCA Board?
  • Rock climbing is a recreational activity that is strongly supported by our neighbours at Conservation Halton and appears in many of their promotional materials. Yet, next door, we are unable to legally climb on GRCA land. Why is that?
  • Did you know that rock climbers are a responsible and fast-growing user group that contribute substantially to the local economy? 
  • Rockwood is a unique climbing area in Southern Ontario, with a type of rock that is found nowhere else nearby. We have had Olympic and World Cup downhill skiers whose home club is Chicopee in Kitchener. Imagine if we had an Olympic climbing champion who started climbing in Ontario!

We encourage you to politely email your candidates, and identify yourself as a climber and a voter in your local municipality. We’d be very interested in learning about anything you find out from your local candidates! If you have information to share after following up with your campaigning candidates, please reach out to patrick.lam@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca.

Join our Letter Campaign to Secure Climbing Access NOW!Write a letter at ClimbInParks.ca
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