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Devil’s Glen Update

By May 17, 2023One Comment
Allow Climbing at Devil's Glen graphic depicting a raised fist holding a quickdraw. designed by Michelle Ang.
Graphic design credit goes to @michyllica ❤️


There have been 10 signs posted at Devil’s Glen (6 at the top of the cliff, and 4 at the bottom of the cliff). The signs state ‘Protection Area / No Rock Climbing Here to Next Sign’, and were first noticed on Thursday May 11.

The signs span the climbs between Morning Star and the easy way down on climbers’ right, only on Ontario Parks managed land. Routes from Nutcracker to the west are not affected and not in park boundaries.

The Ontario Parks signs appeared without warning. Late Friday May 12, the OAC received both voicemail and email responses from our inquiries to Ontario Parks confirming that the new signage at Devil’s Glen is official, and was placed by their regional ecologist.

This is extremely disappointing. The OAC has been in regular meetings with Ontario Parks. We have repeatedly requested science-based evidence supporting any potential closures, and were informed by OP that a list of affected routes would be provided to us prior to any changes. We have received no such information.

Ontario Parks has repeatedly stated that they wish to work “collaboratively with the ON climbing community” — but these recent events run to the contrary. We are taking this violation of the terms of our proposed communications framework very seriously. Unilateral action of this nature is deeply concerning for the climbing community, and should be of grave concern for ALL recreation-based user groups.

We’re in the process of building a strategy to counter the recent closure by Ontario Parks of climbing routes at Devil’s Glen. We’ve requested the results of the environmental survey which Ontario Parks based their decision off of, and they have told us we can expect to receive the results before the end of the month.

Here’s what you can expect from us over the next two weeks:

  • We’ll be sending out a survey on the economic impact of climbing in Ontario. Keep an eye open for it and be sure to fill it out!
  • Patagonia Toronto will be hosting a screening of Stone Locals on May 25th — and we’ll be there! Come visit our table and talk to us in person.
  • We’ll be holding a town hall in early June (date TBD). This will be an important meeting for everyone concerned about the future of climbing at Devil’s Glen.

What can YOU do right NOW?

Stay up to date as we share news. Join the OAC if you’re not a member yet! And help us SPREAD THE WORD. Repost and share our messages to your socials. Tell your friends. Make sure *everyone* you climb with is aware of what’s going on.

Because this goes beyond Devil’s Glen. This has the potential to affect climbing access throughout all of Ontario.