by Patrick Lam, on behalf of the OAC Board

Following community consultations, the Ontario government has released the final version of the Niagara Escarpment Plan. Because much of Southern Ontario climbing occurs on the Niagara Escarpment, and because the Niagara Escarpment Commission has the power to control the use of the Escarpment (even on private land), the Plan is tremendously significant to Ontario climbers. The final version of the Plan incorporates feedback from the climbing community. Thank you for your help; together, we helped preserve access to Ontario climbing!

Impact of the new Plan

The Ontario Access Coalition does not expect immediate changes to climbing access as a result of the new Plan. As always, climbing access is tenuous and may be threatened by impacts by climbers and other visitors. Demonstrating stewardship and following Leave No Trace principles can help position climbers as a net positive for our open spaces.

More specifically, here’s what the Plan says about climbing. Rock climbing is now explicitly permitted in parks and open spaces where a climbing management plan exists. Some of our strongest partners are conservation authorities (CAs). Our understanding is that, in collaboration with the Ontario Access Coalition, CAs have developed plans for Niagara Glen, Rattlesnake Point/Buffalo Crag/Bottleglass, Mount Nemo, Kelso, and Old Baldy.

We continue to work with CAs and the Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry to develop climbing management plans for other areas. A general principle that helps with climbing access is that the Niagara Escarpment Plan generally permits existing uses even if they are non-conforming.

Nature Reserves

The Plan contains a classification of parks and open space. The most sensitive classification is that of a Nature Reserve, to which access “will not be widely promoted [… and] activities limited to those that can further scientific understanding and education”. Many historically significant Ontario climbing areas, such as Lion’s Head, lie within Nature Reserves. Previous proposed plans explicitly disallowed climbing in Nature Reserves; we asked community input to focus on this particular aspect. The current plan does not contain a prohibition. However, climbers should be especially careful about impact in these areas, for which nature preservation is the key objective.

References

The Niagara Escarpment Commission has posted the plan at https://www.escarpment.org/LandPlanning/NEP.

We’re pleased to publish our strategic plan, which will guide our efforts in the next few years. The strategic plan includes goals of advocating for access to climbing areas; strengthening community involvement and outreach; and promoting environmental stewardship.

Please find our plan at the following page:

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/about/oac-strategic-plan-february-2017/

As always, we welcome new volunteers to help us achieve our goals. Please get in touch with us using the contact link on the website or by emailing info@ontarioaccesscoalition.com.

The Niagara Parks Commission has announced its parking fees for 2023. These fees apply to all parks users arriving by car.

Boulderers who are climbing at the Niagara Glen need a climbing permit, which can be obtained at the Butterfly Conservatory. This climbing permit costs $45 per year or $23 for a daily pass. Holders of a climbing permit also receive a parking permit (which would normally cost $50 for the year or $30 for a daily pass), which is valid for two license plates. Permits can be purchased on-line here: Niagara Falls | Bouldering in Nature at Niagara Glen (niagaraparks.com)

We encourage climbers to demonstrate stewardship of this unique natural area and to apply Leave No Trace principles at the crag. More details about the cleanup will be coming tomorrow.

Niagara Parks has been a valued partner of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers; our strong relationship has helped keep the Glen open despite access challenges caused by the its popularity.

Niagara Parks maintains a webpage about Travelling to and around Niagara Parks.

Are you a boulderer who is looking for a way to help the OAC keep Ontario bouldering areas open? This is your chance to help! Enjoy time at one of Ontario’s premier bouldering crags while giving back to the community by becoming a site host at Halfway Log Dump!

Tyler Janzen bouldering, photo: Anne Tong.

The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park are looking for help from the climbing community in the form of volunteer weekend Site Hosts. Site Hosts, like Camp Hosts, act as stewards and caretakers for the area. The Site Host program has been a huge success since its launch in 2010. The OAC and the Park are once again looking again for volunteers for 2017. If you would like to help access efforts and become a Site Host for a weekend, please fill out the form below:

OAC 2017 site host application form

What does a Site Host do?

I think of Site Hosts as being like the friendly guy/girl at the gym. Site hosts act as ambassadors for Halfway Log Dump. They ensure everyone is having a good time, communicate the rules that are in place, point out the endangered Lakeside Daisy (“see it right over there?”), explain bouldering to curious tourists and, of course, know all the beta on every problem ;). These honoured volunteers will receive free camping! (as available), and pre-paid parking at the park. This is all courtesy of Bruce Peninsula National Park as a thanks to volunteers.

Who makes a good site host?

If you like to boulder outside, can get yourself to the Bruce Peninsula, and are interested in helping maintain climbing access in Ontario, you will be a great site host! Even if you’re not an outdoor boulderer, you can still be a site host—one year, we had a host on crutches!

I would like to help, but I have never been to Halfway Log Dump. Can I still volunteer as a site host?

It might be your first visit or your 101st visit to Halfway Log Dump. This honour is still open to you. We can tell you what you need to know. It’s not hard. You can put it on your resume and land that promotion you’ve been after.

For an up-to date look at Halfway, Joe Ho’s beautiful new guidebook is available for purchase at your local climbing gym, MEC store, or online through the Ontario Climbing Guidebook Shop.

Ontario Climbing interview about Joe Ho guidebook
Buy Joe Ho guidebook through Ontario Climbing Shop

An older guide for Halfway Log Dump is also available for free from the OAC. If you download this guide we hope that you will take the time to become an OAC member, or make a donation if you are already a member.

HWLD Interpretive Bouldering guidebook

Yeah, but, if I go there I want to focus on climbing

The time commitment of site hosts at the boulders is minimal and can easily be incorporated into a regular day at the crag. You will be walking by other boulderers and they will be walking by you. In talking to other boulderers, you may discover that they know something you don’t. You could learn about the latest lines, new beta, local weather, best dining, local plants, or a shortcut home.

Clarissa Vandenbussche

A big thanks to those of you who apply!

Please help the OAC by telling us about your climbing from last year. The survey is our key source of information about climber demographics and spending. This information improves our bargaining position when we negotiate with land managers.

https://survey.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/2016

We will hold a drawing on May 2 for a $50 MEC gift certificate. Thank you for your support!