Our News

Late last year, we asked climbers to write to the Niagara Escarpment Commission about potential changes to the Niagara Escarpment Plan which would severely restrict climbing access. Thanks for all your support during the recent Niagara Escarpment Plan consultation. We believe that it made a difference in the final Staff Recommendations, which came out in December. Here’s an update about the Plan amendment process.

This January, the OAC confirmed that the Proposed Plan includes amendments clarifying that climbing may continue in areas where there is a history of climbing. It should be noted that climbing may continue. It is thus vitally important that climbers, like all user groups, continue to act responsibly.

Climbing will continue to be allowed in a Nature Reserve where it is an existing use, and is generally allowed outside of Nature Reserves, subject to management plans.

This represents a significant win for the climbing community and stands as an example of what we can accomplish when we come together as a community. While this recommendation is less than we asked for, it is something that we can live with. We at the OAC currently believe that this will not affect climbing at some of our highest-profile areas like Lion’s Head. We will continue to advocate for climbing access throughout Ontario. The OAC will be calling on the climbing community shortly in an effort to address long-held climbing closures in Provincial Parks.

The staff report specifically mention your advocacy:

“Numerous comments received from individuals and rock climbing organizations concerned that proposed policies will restrict opportunities for rock climbing which is a tourism opportunity. They state that there is no indication that the activity causes environmental harm. They propose that rock climbing be allowed to continue where a history of climbing activity has taken place and support preparation of climbing management plans.”

It lists the consideration:

“Where rock climbing can be identified as an existing use as defined in the [Niagara Escarpment Plan], it may be allowed to continue in NEPOSS.”

You can find the recommendations on page 43 of the following PDF document:
http://escarpment.org/_files/file.php?fileid=fileednIjxTVCQ&filename=file_2016_12_14_15_Co_ordinated_Review_Policy_Analysis___Policy_Areas_Complete_RedactedTC.pdf

Get involved, stay informed, and climb safe.

(photo credit: Mike Penney)

On December 17th, we launched “Climbing for Community” at the Arcteryx Toronto store. It is a documentary highlighting the efforts of all those that attended SOIceFest01, raised awareness and a bit of funding for TROUT. It is available for viewing online here!

On December 17th, we launched “Climbing for Community” at the Arcteryx Toronto store. It is a documentary highlighting the efforts of all those that attended SOIceFest01, raised awareness and a bit of funding for TROUT. It is available for viewing online here!

This past October, the OAC launched a campaign to address proposed closures to Ontario climbing in the new Niagara Escarpment Plan. It is unclear when we will learn the outcome of our community’s efforts. It is vitally important that we as a climbing community continue to pressure relevant management bodies to recognize rock climbing as a legitimate conforming activity.

Rock climbing in Canada is growing at an incredible rate. The current ban on rock climbing in Ontario Provincial Parks (with the exception of Bon Echo) is placing increased pressure on existing areas. Additional closures to public lands on the Bruce Peninsula and Devil’s Glen will further increase impact at remaining climbing sites. While every other province in Canada with significant climbing opportunities works with their local climbing community, Ontario instead proposes blanket closures, a unique approach.

In January 2017 the OAC will be issuing a CALL TO ACTION. Details will be provided at that time. It is vital that every climber get involved regardless of ability, style of climbing, or experience. We as a community must continue to push for our right to enjoy climbing on public lands.

“Climbing for Community” Screening at the Arc’teryx Toronto store! RVSP here!

goo.gl/jFvX5r

I have long said that climbers are lucky to be able to visit the cliffside environment. And never is this more evident than when a non-climber gets to see what we see. The expression of joy on their faces helps remind me that our climbing areas are truly special. Recently, I was contacted through the OAC and Conservation Halton to help a world-renowned photographer access the cliffside at Mount Nemo. Mark Zelinksi is currently working on a book about the Niagara Escarpment and wanted some photographs of ancient cedars to complete the project.

Throughout the day, as we searched for and photographed ancient cedars, we crossed paths with numerous hikers at Mount Nemo. They were enjoying a stroll through the forest on a beautiful autumn day. Occasionally they would stop at the many lookout points along the top of the cliff and take in the vista-of-humanity in the valley below—farms, golf courses, and cities—unaware of the ancient world below their feet. An ancient world that Mark hopes to capture and showcase for everybody to see. His work aims to preserve this ancient world in images and words.

I’ve been philosophically wrestling with human impact these days. The conservation versus enjoyment trade-off hangs heavy in my mind. What is that balance between preservation and being able to experience what we are preserving? Is it even meant for us to experience, to enjoy? Does the old environmentalist adage of “leave no trace, take only photographs” still fit with the current, and growing, usage of our parks and natural spaces? We can’t pretend that we have no impact when using these trails. While these trails are created to preserve the environment, they are still highways for humanity into previously natural areas; every footstep a micro-construction site of steamroller compaction and bulldozer erosion. In a world where everyone has a device capable of professional-quality photographs, does a picture of an ancient cedar inspire us to preserve the space, or does it inspire us to go take a selfie with the tree?

Climbers have long been the scapegoat of Escarpment conservation. As we are the only user group on the side of the cliff, we are an easy target. That cliffside ecosystem is ancient–one of the few undisturbed ancient worlds left on Earth. Climbers need to recognize that it isn’t a playground or a climbing gym. We need to educate ourselves on what is being protected, and to try to co-exist with it. It seems the more time we spend in the cliffside environment, the more we are desensitized to its uniqueness and beauty. Mark’s excitement over seeing the amazingly sculpted ancient trees reminded me how lucky we are as climbers to experience this cliffside environment. But it isn’t just the ancient trees, it’s the whole ecosystem that the cliffside supports, itself supported by the trees.

Next time you’re out climbing, open your eyes to the world around you and ask questions. “What’s this plant?” “What’s that tree?” “What type of bird is singing that song?” In doing so, we can deepen our relationship with the natural world. And a deeper relationship will help us remember how special our time is when spent in this space.

Mark’s book, Heart Of Turtle Island: The Great Escarpment, is expected to be released in October 2017. It should be required reading for Escarpment climbers, as the words and images contained within will guide us to deepen our appreciation for our local crags.

http://www.markzelinski.com/books.html

Written by Justin Dwyer

Mountain Equipment Co-Op‘s ongoing support has been instrumental in funding our operations. Their contributions free us to focus on our core competence, advocating for Ontario access, confident that we have money for ongoing operations.

We’re grateful that the staff at MEC Burlington have chosen to award the OAC $500 as part of their Staff Choice Community Grant program!

The Ontario Crags 2017 calendar is available now at MEC stores across Ontario! Don’t miss out on our best collection of photos yet! Featuring 12 different crags, plus a bonus centrefold poster of Lion’s Head, this calendar is a reminder of just how much great rock and ice this province has to offer. Get yours (and a gift for a friend) today! A HUGE thanks to our contributing photographers. We thank you in advance for supporting the OAC through this purchase!