The OAC has been receiving inquiries from the climbing community asking for an update on climbing access to “The Swamp”. The popularity of “The Swamp” rose very sharply after news of its existence spread in the community during the 2010 climbing season. The area features both sport and traditional climbing on cliff lines and detached pinnacles in a pleasant forested setting.
The Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) manages the area and currently tolerates climbing thanks to the efforts of the OAC. In 2010, the OAC met with the MNR in a successful effort to prevent the closure of the area. The MNR is currently conducting an assessment of the environmental Natural Heritage of the larger area which includes “The Swamp” climbing area. The OAC is in regular contact with the MNR regarding “The Swamp” and is working hard on behalf of the climbing community to ensure sustainable access to the area.
Rumour has spread that climbers should steer clear of the area while the Natural Heritage Assessment occurs. In an effort to update the climbing community with correct information Shawn Carey, Area Manager (and an ex-climber himself) with the MNR has issued this statement:
“MNR and OAC have been in regular contact regarding climbing activities at the Kolapore Uplands. OAC is aware that MNR is currently conducting a natural heritage and trail inventory in an attempt to better understand the ecological features and functions in the area and also to assess the potential impacts of various recreational uses on those features. Our goal is to ensure that recreational opportunities continue to exist but are managed in a way that ensures adequate protection of the unique features in Kolapore. OAC has been very helpful in providing advice and recommendations with respect to assessing the climbing routes and looking at various management options for the future. MNR continues to encourage climbers to follow “leave no trace” practices and understands that their actions during this process will impact the outcome. MNR looks forward to continuing to work with OAC and appreciate their efforts to date. “
As always, please follow the OAC’s “Code of Ethics” when climbing at “The Swamp” and other Ontario crags.
Climbing at Kelso is scheduled to re-open Sept 30, 2012. Halton Conservation is working hard to expedite construction and allow climbing to resume as soon as possible.
Premature climbing in the area may compromise the construction permit and cause a further delay. A further meeting scheduled for mid-August is expected to build on increased mutual understanding to date of the OAC’s, climbers’ and Conservation Halton’s perspectives.
The OAC would like to thank Jon Rigg for his volunteer efforts in facilitating conversations with the Park Superintendant and doing a fine job representing the interests of the climbing community.
We can’t wait to get back on some of the classics like Dragline, Zip and Jolly Roger.
Thanks to Leslie Timms and the ACC!
For those of you that missed it – Leslie and the ACC put on a great night at Gabby’s Grill House on June 14. Leslie’s recollections of her first days on the rocks, road trips, hard redpoints and guiding exams entertained a great crowd. To show support for the OAC, Leslie auctioned off prizes that she donated from her sponsors to raise well over $500 for the OAC! Leslie’s guiding service “On The Rocks Climbing” at www.ontherocksclimbing.com is the latest corporate member to join the OAC. Check out more about the evening on Leslie and the ACC’s website.
Halfway Log Dump- site hosts 2012
Another great season of bouldering at Halfway Log Dump is here. So many people are asking how they can help the OAC keep crags open – well, this is your chance to help!
The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park are looking for help from the climbing community in the form of volunteer weekend Site Hosts. Site Hosts, like a Camp host, act as stewards or Caretakers for the area during their time volunteering. The Site Host program was a huge success in 2010 and 2011, so the OAC and the Park are looking again for volunteers for 2012. If you want to help access efforts and become a Site Host for a weekend click HERE to fill in the volunteer application.
The guide for halfway Log Dump is available for FREE from the OAC. If you download this guide we hope that you will take the time to become an OAC member, or make a donation if you are already a member. Click HERE to download the “2011 HWLD Interpretive bouldering guide” (and guidebook).
What does a Site Host do?
Site hosts act as ambassadors for Halfway Log Dump while they volunteer. They ensure everyone is having a good time, communicate the rules that are in place, point out the endangered Lakeside Daisy, explain bouldering to curious tourists and, of course, know all the beta on every problem.![]()
These honoured volunteers will receive free camping!!! (as available), luxurious pre-paid parking ($11.70 per day), and free volunteer apparel. This is all courtesy of Bruce Peninsula National Park. A thanks to those of you who volunteer from your fellow climbers for stepping up to help out the sport you love!
Who makes a good site host?
If you like to boulder outside, can get yourself to the Bruce Peninsula, and are interested in helping access in Ontario, you would be a great site host!
I would like to help, but I have never been to Halfway Log Dump. Can I still volunteer as a site host?
It might be your first visit or your hundred and first visit to Halfway Log Dump. This honour is still open to you. We can tell you what you need to know. It’s not hard. You can put it on your resume and land that promotion you’ve been after.
Yeah, but, if I go there I want to focus on climbing
The time commitment of site host at the boulders is minimal and can easily be incorporated into a regular day at the crag. You will be walking by other boulderers and they will be walking by you. In talking to other boulderers, you may discover that they know something you don’t about the latest lines, new beta, local weather, best dining, local plants, or a shortcut home.

The OAC just stopped by Kelso and confirmed that climbing at Kelso is indeed closed until the construction of the huge new ski lift is complete (estimated completion Nov 2012). The OAC asks that people respect the temporary closure (from any access point)! Note – we are making follow up inquiries to see if the park will allow access from the upper lot. Photo at the Kelso North gate:

The meeting will be held at Climber’s Rock in Burlington on June 28th at 7 PM.
To be eligible to vote at the AGM, one is required to be a member of the Ontario Access Coalition. To allow for the processing of new members, please ensure applications are submitted prior to June 19th. Please visit our membership page on www.ontarioaccesscoalition.ca for further details.
This spring, the Ontario Access Coalition helped organize and run three separate events in support of sustainable climbing. Thank you to the many volunteers who took time out of their lives and put in some work to give back to the climbing areas we love. Thank you Niagara Parks, Conservation Halton, the Ministry of Natural Resources, Friends of the Glen, Free Spirit Tours, Blue Mountain Landscaping, True North Climbing, Patagonia, and of course Mountain Equipment Co-op for working with climbers to make these events a success.
Saturday April 21 Niagara Glen Earth Day with “Friends of the Glen”, The Niagara Parks Commission, the Niagara Parks Police, the Niagara Falls Nature Club, and Leave No Trace, the second annual “Earth Day at the Glen” took place under less then ideal conditions. Volunteers planted new trees and helped educate boulderers and other visitors about sustainable bouldering practices. The Niagara Glen is an undeniable treasure trove of natural beauty. The rugged terrain masks a much more sensitive side that needs our help. Approximately 490 species of vulnerable plants and animals call the Glen home and an unprecedented number of them are listed as either “at risk” or “rare” in the province, one of the largest concentrations anywhere in Ontario.
Sunday May 6, Conservation Halton Invasive Species Removal “Garlic Pull – For the second year in a row climbers pulled hard to make another dent into the spread of the invasive plant “Garlic Mustard” at Rattlesnake Point. A free BBQ courtesy of the OAC followed along with a prize draw of tonnes of great gear courtesy of the always amazing MEC. Mark Smith won a fierce silent auction bidding war for a Nano Puff jacket courtesy of Patagonia. Afternoon conditions were perfect and volunteers were treated to a great day at the crag
Sunday May 27 Metcalfe Rock “Clean and Climb” with Free Spirit Tours – For the second year in a row the OAC has been fortunate enough to participate in Free Spirit Tours “Clean and Climb” event at Metcalfe rock in the Kolopore Uplands. The event saw a simply massive trailer full of cedar mulch transported to the cliff base and trails to help protect the roots of trees. Volunteers, fueled by hot coffee and donuts courtesy of True North Climbing Gym managed to spread the entire contents of the trailer along the muddy trails, which are prone to erosion. The event finished with a prize draw for items donated by local businesses and the always amazing MEC. After refueling (with more coffee of course) some great times at the cliff and on the trails followed.

If you didn’t get a chance to make it to one of these events you can do your part by being a good steward for sustainable climbing, following these “Leave No Trace” practices and encouraging other climbers to do the same.
