Our News

We are happy to answer your questions to the best of our abilities. Today we’d like to share answers to couple of questions that were posted on a climbing forum. Got more questions? Use the Contact tab (on your left) to ask. We’ll answer.

1) The $6000 that was handed over from the Beaver Valley Climbing Festival in 2014 was earmarked for a parking lot at Devil’s Glen. What’s the status?

The parking lot project at Devil’s Glen is a long term project. As with much of the Escarpment, change generally involves several different management groups coming together to agree on a particular item. Generally projects of this nature take time and resources. The OAC will continue to champion this project with park management.

2) The Swamp Study. The MNR undertook a major study last year to look at environmental impact. What’s the status? How was the money we donated used?

The data collection portion of the Environmental Study was completed last year. Thank you to those who donated their money and time to help collect data. Initial feedback looks positive. The MNR and OAC are waiting for the study’s completion and will work together to create an appropriate management plan at that time.

3) Old Baldy: Last post indicated that OAC had raised $130,000 to purchase land at Old Baldy. Has the rest been raised? (the sale price was listed at $290,000) What’s the status? What about permits?

The transaction has completed and has been announced on our Facebook page, our website, Gripped’s website, ontarioclimbing.com and print media. The OAC and the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority are working towards the next steps which will include installing proper signage, etc. Information regarding permits will be released very shortly.

4) 2015 Beaver Valley Climbing Festival: Dates have been announced, looks like at least $5000 has been pledged so far, with proceeds to the OAC. What’s the money going toward? Who is covering the insurance? (it sounds like Free Spirit Tours isn’t covering it this year…)

The OAC will be running the BVCF this year with significant help from On the Rocks. Details will be forthcoming. Discussions regarding insurance are not relevant given the change in this year’s format. This will be an exciting year with a new format and use of the Beaver Valley’s four big crags. We encourage everyone to attend the climbing festival and meet your neighbours.

On May 2nd, local climbers worked with Conservation Halton to make the OAC’s annual Crag Stewardship Day happen. Over 60 eager stewards gathered under beautiful sunny skies at Rattlesnake Point Conversation Area to help eradicate the invasive alien species garlic mustard, and to help clean up the area.

Brenda, Conservation Halton ecologist, helped participants learn to identify the vile weed and understand its nefarious effects. She described its invasion tactics in great detail: its roots emit a chemical that inhibits the growth of other species, like trilliums. Climbers can help by picking garlic mustard before it drops its seeds. Conservation Halton staff have been pleased to observe that our continued efforts have made an impact on the garlic mustard problem. This was further reinforced by one participant, who commented on the noticeable reduction in the area we have been working on, after not having participated in last year’s event.

After a few hours of work, filling the back of a truck with bags of garlic mustard, the participants gathered for a free barbecue courtesy of the OAC. Everyone ate their fill of hamburgers, hotdogs and fresh salads. While lunch digested, the OAC presented our past successes (Old Baldy purchase) and ongoing projects (the upcoming Beaver Valley Climbing Festival). As further thanks to the participants, we raffled a pile of great prizes. Prize sponsors included Mountain Equipment Co-op, The Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada, Conservation Halton, The Rock Oasis, Columbia Sportswear, Outland Adventure Gear, and Ice Climbing Team Canada. Some lucky winners even walked away with OAC T-shirts!

Conversation Halton has been a decades-long supporter of rock climbing and of the OAC since its inception. Other land managers and conservation authorities in the province look at the model of our great relationship in crafting their own management plans. This annual event is a great way for climbers to give back, and say thank you to Conservation Halton for their continued support. Once again, thanks to climbers for helping out, and we look forward to the 2016 Crag Stewardship Day!

Another great season of bouldering at Halfway Log Dump is here. So many people are asking how they can help the OAC keep crags open. This is your chance to help!

The OAC and Bruce Peninsula National Park are looking for help from the climbing community in the form of volunteer weekend Site Hosts. Site Hosts, like a Camp host, act as stewards or Caretakers for the area during their time volunteering. The Site Host program has been a huge success since the launch in 2010, so the OAC and the Park are looking again for volunteers for 2015. If you want to help access efforts and become a Site Host for a weekend, click HERE to fill in the volunteer application.

New this year: We are also looking for a volunteer to coordinate the site host program. Your responsibility as site host coordinator would be to maintain a roster of site hosts, to follow up with them and make sure everything is going well, and to communicate with the Park. Please email info@ontarioaccesscoalition.com if you are interested in helping out!

The guide for Halfway Log Dump is available for free from the OAC. If you download this guide we hope that you will take the time to become an OAC member, or make a donation if you are already a member. Click HERE to download the “HWLD Interpretive Bouldering guidebook”.

What does a Site Host do?
Site hosts act as ambassadors for Halfway Log Dump while they volunteer. They ensure everyone is having a good time, communicate the rules that are in place, point out the endangered Lakeside Daisy, explain bouldering to curious tourists and, of course, know all the beta on every problem. These honoured volunteers will receive free camping!!! (as available), luxurious pre-paid parking ($11.70 per day), and free volunteer apparel. This is all courtesy of Bruce Peninsula National Park. A thanks to those of you who volunteer from your fellow climbers for stepping up to help out the sport you love!

Who makes a good site host? If you like to boulder outside, can get yourself to the Bruce Peninsula, and are interested in helping access in Ontario, you would be a great site host!

I would like to help, but I have never been to Halfway Log Dump. Can I still volunteer as a site host?

It might be your first visit or your hundred and first visit to Halfway Log Dump. This honour is still open to you. We can tell you what you need to know. It’s not hard. You can put it on your resume and land that promotion you’ve been after.

Yeah, but, if I go there I want to focus on climbing

The time commitment of site host at the boulders is minimal and can easily be incorporated into a regular day at the crag. You will be walking by other boulderers and they will be walking by you. In talking to other boulderers, you may discover that they know something you don’t about the latest lines, new beta, local weather, best dining, local plants, or a shortcut home.

Let’s welcome back the spring climbing season once again with the OAC’s annual Crag Stewardship Day held in conjunction with Conservation Halton!

Event Details

Saturday, May 2, 9AM
Rattlesnake Point, Upper Pavilion

Please fill out this form to RSVP:
Crag Stewardship Day Signup Form

All volunteers receive:

• FREE entry to Rattlesnake Point
• BBQ lunch
• Entry for epic prize giveaways
• Cliffs available all afternoon

Bring gardening gloves!

On Saturday, May 2, we will help preserve the environment at one of Ontario’s most popular crags, Rattlesnake Point.

As in previous years, climbers of all abilities have a chance to give back to one of our biggest supporters, Conservation Halton, by helping remove the invasive (yet edible) species garlic mustard. Bring gardening gloves!

Please join us for one of the OAC’s signature outdoor events at 9AM at the Upper Pavilion on May 2, rain or shine.

Conservation Halton will provide free parking permits to Rattlesnake Point for volunteers. The OAC will provide a BBQ lunch and prize draws. Following the lunch, you’re encouraged to hop on the cliffs at Rattlesnake Point, Buffalo Crag, Mount Kelso and Mount Nemo.

Now that it’s 2015, we would love to hear about your climbing experiences from last year. This year, we are offering a draw for a $50 MEC gift certificate to a randomly-drawn survey participant. Thanks for your help!

CLICK HERE to take the 2014 OAC Survey

By completing the survey you are helping climbing access in the province. The information you provide is used in aggregate to assist the OAC in representing climbers when asking Land Managers to consider how to balance preservation and recreation. Survey data collected from this survey will be kept strictly confidential and the entire survey should take you about five minutes to complete. Your participation is greatly appreciated. Climb safe and tread lightly.

Now that it’s 2015, we would love to hear about your climbing experiences from last year. This year, we are offering a draw for a $50 MEC gift certificate to a randomly-drawn survey participant. Thanks for your help!

CLICK HERE to take the 2014 OAC Survey

By completing the survey you are helping climbing access in the province. The information you provide is used in aggregate to assist the OAC in representing climbers when asking Land Managers to consider how to balance preservation and recreation. Survey data collected from this survey will be kept strictly confidential and the entire survey should take you about five minutes to complete. Your participation is greatly appreciated. Climb safe and tread lightly.