A message to local climbers from Conservation Halton:
Last week, we discovered an unauthorized route development and hardware installation at Kelso Conservation Area including a retro-bolt of Alan’s Layback (5.7 trad), as well as the establishment of additional sport climbs that were added without permission.
The addition of any permanent climbing hardware, creation of new routes, or modification of existing routes (or altering of/tampering with existing hardware – including rock climbs) is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of Conservation Halton (CH).
These actions can lead to the creation of unmanageable and possibly unsafe routes that could be detrimental to the environment and our climbing community. Anyone found or reported altering trails may see themselves removed from the park and potentially banned from CH parks via Tresspass notice.
CH has a long-term constructive working relationship with the Ontario Alliance of Climbers and the climbing community. The climbing community has shown itself to be good stewards of the area along the cliff. If there are issues that need addressing, or proposals for improvement along the cliff, please contact the Ontario Alliance of Climbers at info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca. We have worked closely with the OAC for many years to balance the recreational and environmental needs while maintaining the natural spaces of the park. We are happy to hear any proposals from the climbing community that they bring to our attention.
As good ambassadors for the outdoors, please climb responsibly and respect the land and its managers. Our CH teams work hard to protect these spaces for everyone’s enjoyment. Climbers can help by staying on established trails and climbing routes, minimizing their impact. CH staff are responsible for trail maintenance and site care. If you see a fallen tree or other vegetation hazard, please contact the OAC who will let us know so that we can request that it be addressed.
Thank you for helping protect access, preserve the environment, and keep our climbing community strong and sustainable!
This message has been issued in response to unauthorized route development which recently occurred at Kelso (a Conservation Halton Park), including a retro-bolt of Alan’s Layback (5.7 trad), as well as the establishment of additional sport climbs.
Conservation Halton (CH) is the land manager of Kelso, Mount Nemo, and Rattlesnake Point. The access plan established with the OAC and the climbing community requires CH authorization for any development or maintenance occurring in their parks – whether it be new route development, tree cutting, trail building, or retro-bolting of existing routes.
This recent route development at Kelso was done without authorization. CH has decided that these unauthorized routes will be removed and requested the OAC facilitate their removal. The bolts from Alan’s Layback and another new route have already been removed by volunteers.
The OAC and CH have an excellent working relationship that allows for the climbing we enjoy in their parks. It is very rare that land managers are as supportive of climbing as CH has been. When the OAC has discussions with land managers, we often reference our relationship with CH because of their tremendous support of the climbing community and strong partnership.
To maintain this access in Conservation Halton Parks, we must adhere to the terms of the access plan. That means if there is a desire to establish new routes, or a need to alter the environment and/or make any climbing hardware alterations, you must reach out to the OAC first. CH trusts the OAC’s judgment, and is more than happy to consider any reasonable proposal we present.