AccessNews

Devil’s Glen Update

By June 13, 2022

Let’s talk about what’s going on at Devil’s Glen.

As you may be aware, through early 2022, our members began reporting vandalism and mischief at Devil’s Glen. From there, things seemed to escalate, and we have  continued to share updates via our website and on Social Media.

If we had to sum up the last few months in a few wordsessentially, the climbers at Devil’s Glen are being bullied by anti-climbing mischief. 

We currently have not yet gathered conclusive proof about who is causing the trouble, and we do not know their motivations. However, we believe that the people responsible are also reading these posts. With that in mind, the OAC is exercising discretion about what tactics we may be pursuing to address this serious issue. We ask that our members be similarly discreet.

While the events are ongoing, there have been some developments.

The OAC has been in ongoing communication with land managers and the OPP on this matter, and the discussions have been positive. This matter is serious, and efforts are underway.

Devil’s Glen is on public land  and we understand that Ontario Parks is happy to have climbers enjoy the space.

So what can climbers do?

Copied from our April news article:

  • Do not engage with individuals who approach you while parking/leaving/arriving at your vehicle unless they can provide proof of OPP, By-law or similar credentials.
  • Do not engage if you are approached/questioned by other park users unless that individual can provide proof of Ontario Parks, MNR or similar credentials.
  • Do not leave valuables in your car while climbing.
  • Keep your personal belongings near you at all times.
  • Be sure to assess the bolts & anchors on each climb before & during climbing.
  • Take extra caution to assess the climbing up to the first bolt & use a stick clip if necessary to protect the moves to the first available bolt.
  • Continue to be great climbing ambassadors, respecting the space and fellow park users when out at the crag.
  • In the event of an emergency, call 911.
  • The non-emergency OPP telephone number is 1-888-310-1122.
  • Please share with the OAC any information you may have related to this ongoing situation.

Please Report further incidents

We continue to encourage all climbers to report any suspicious activity to us. Contact us here.
If you are approached aggressively by anyone in the park or surrounding area, or if you experience theft or damage to your property, please call the police.
In the event of an emergency, call 911.
The non-emergency OPP line is 1-888-310-1122.

What the OAC is doing

We are often asked what efforts are underway to remedy this situation.

As this is ongoing, we prefer not to discuss our plans publicly — but rest assured, this is a high-priority task for us, and we are working with agencies assisting us in solving this.

We will keep you posted on developments.

The Silver Lining

When faced with challenges, we try to find a silver lining.

From the beginning, climbers who’ve visited the crag and experienced this nuisance have taken the high road.

Everyone has handled it like champs and demonstrated respect and care for the space. (Thanks for the clean-up efforts, gang!)

As a community, we are working to find solutions through dialogue and long-term solutions, and this has not gone unnoticed by the various agencies we work with. (Thanks to everyone—go team!)

Parking and Access

New parking restrictions exist on the side of Concession 10 (by Devil’s Glen) to accommodate local farmers.

Climbers are still encouraged to park on Concession 10, but No-Parking signs will prohibit parking for the first 175 metres on the east side of the road, and the first 50 metres on the west side, and will be enforced by Bylaw.

We appreciate your understanding in this matter.

Enjoy the crag responsibly.

Devil's Glen Crag - Parking and Access