This message has been issued in response to unauthorized route development which recently occurred at Kelso (a Conservation Halton Park), including a retro-bolt of Alan’s Layback (5.7 trad), as well as the establishment of additional sport climbs.

Conservation Halton (CH) is the land manager of Kelso, Mount Nemo, and Rattlesnake Point. The access plan established with the OAC and the climbing community requires CH authorization for any development or maintenance occurring in their parks – whether it be new route development, tree cutting, trail building, or retro-bolting of existing routes.

This recent route development at Kelso was done without authorization. CH has decided that these unauthorized routes will be removed and requested the OAC facilitate their removal. The bolts from Alan’s Layback and another new route have already been removed by volunteers.

The OAC and CH have an excellent working relationship that allows for the climbing we enjoy in their parks. It is very rare that land managers are as supportive of climbing as CH has been. When the OAC has discussions with land managers, we often reference our relationship with CH because of their tremendous support of the climbing community and strong partnership.

To maintain this access in Conservation Halton Parks, we must adhere to the terms of the access plan. That means if there is a desire to establish new routes, or a need to alter the environment and/or make any climbing hardware alterations, you must reach out to the OAC first. CH trusts the OAC’s judgment, and is more than happy to consider any reasonable proposal we present.

The amendment to the Devil’s Glen Provincial Park Management Plan has officially been approved!

This is a major milestone — not just for climbing access, but for how outdoor recreation and conservation can work together. The updated plan includes policies to formally authorize and manage rock climbing in the park, creating a path forward for safe, sustainable access. This is a big step forward, and it sets an important precedent for climbing in provincial parks across Ontario.

This outcome reflects years of work and being a good partner with Ontario Parks, the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks, and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC). It’s also a testament to the climbing community’s commitment to stewardship, safety, and respect for the environment.

We’re excited for what comes next! The OAC looks forward to continuing to work alongside Ontario Parks to support implementation — through education, stewardship, and responsible use.

Thank you to everyone who contributed, supported, and stayed engaged throughout this process. Your actions have had a direct effect on climbing access in Ontario!

More details to come soon. You can read up on the decision details at the official ERO page.

Fill out our 2025 Climber Survey NOW!

Our annual survey was launched earlier this month to help us learn more about the Ontario climbing community. The more we know about you as a climber, the better we can represent you!

Complete the survey by midnight on November 30th to be entered into a draw to win a free OAC T-shirt

2025 Bolt Fund Recap

This year we launched the OAC Bolt Fund to help offset the expense of maintaining existing routes. We received applications for reimbursement for gear on 71 routes across Ontario!

We’d like to send a big thank you to Crux Capital Corporation, who stepped up to fully fund our inaugural year of the Bolt Fund. Thank you to both Crux Capital and the routesetters who have put in the work to keep us safe

AGM Summary

The 2025 OAC AGM was held on November 5th. With OAC members joining from across the province, we held our elections for the Board of Directors. Congratulations to Mike Penney, Jeremy Fortier, and Jessica Best on being re-elected!

We also provided a recap on what we’ve been up to this year, and had guest speakers provide climbing access updates from across the province.

Miss the AGM? You can watch the full recording below.

You can access our financial report here:

Enjoy the coming winter season!

We’ve got our fingers crossed for a good ice season

Until then, keep your eyes peeled for the launch of our 2026 Ontario Crags Calendar We’ll have it in time for holiday gifting!

Most importantly, please remember that the addition of any permanent climbing hardware, creation of new routes, or modification of existing routes (or altering of/tampering with existing hardware) is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of CH. Should you have recommendations on routes or hardware installation, please contact the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) so that we can contact our partners at CH and discuss potential changes. Existing worn-out hardware which poses a safety risk may either be replaced or maintained, but new bolting on managed land requires land manager permission. You can report bad bolts online through our Report a Bad Bolt page, and we will ensure that this information reaches the appropriate people.

We address this matter following the discovery of recently added hardware that were installed without proper permissions. These actions can lead to the creation of unmanageable and possibly unsafe routes that could be detrimental to the environment and our climbing community.

CH is a valued partner to the climbing community and one of our best models for relationships with land managers. CH openly supports rock climbing at some of their parks — including many crags you’re familiar with such as Mount Nemo, Kelso, Rattlesnake Point, Bottle Glass and Buffalo Crag.

As good ambassadors for the outdoors, please climb responsibly and respect the land and its managers. CH works hard to protect these spaces for everyone’s enjoyment. Climbers can help by staying on established trails and climbing routes, minimizing their impact. CH staff are responsible for trail maintenance and site care. If you see a fallen tree or other vegetation hazard, please let us know so that we can request that it be addressed.

Thank you for helping protect access, preserve the environment, and keep our community safe!

Congratulations, climbers! The Ontario Ministry of Environment, Conservation and Parks (MECP) has heard your voices. Thanks to your letters and advocacy, they are proposing an amendment to the Devil’s Glen Provincial Park Management Plan that would formally recognize rock climbing at DG.

Amendment ERO 019_8238 is a massive milestone and a direct result of our collective action. The proposed amendment is open for public comment until September 19, 2025. Supportive comments are a vital part of the approval process — we need every climber to act now.

What You Can Do:

1. Click here to visit the Environmental Registry website for Amendment 019-8238 (ERO 019-8238).
2. Read the amendment overview—it’s short and accessible.
3. Use your voice! Tell the Ministry why climbing matters to you.
   You can mention:
   • Your experiences at Devil’s Glen
   • Your commitment to conservation
   • Why you support a balanced approach to recreation
   • Looking for more ideas and examples? Check out ClimbInParks.ca for some suggestions!
4. Hit “Submit.” That’s it. You’ve made a difference!

Your comment becomes part of the public record — and part of the decision-making process. Don’t underestimate the power of showing up. Everyone should comment: you don’t have to be a climber in order to have an opinion on this. Ask your friends and family to support you and your fight for access! Ask your neighbours to share their thoughts on balanced conservancy. Tell your out-of-town belay partners that they can help secure access to climbing in Ontario for their future visits.

Devil’s Glen is just the beginning. Amendment ERO 019-8238 lays the groundwork for partnerships with Ontario Parks that could open the door to more climbing opportunities across the province. A collaborative path forward starts here—with climbers supporting conservation while advocating for responsible access.

When you comment on this amendment, you’re not just protecting access at DG. You’re helping create a model that could support climbing at other provincial parks in the future. Let’s build this future together.

Support climbing in provincial parks.

This exciting new initiative is designed to directly support the incredible route developers who work tirelessly to keep our outdoor climbing areas safe and sustainable.

The Bolt Fund will help cover the costs of replacing old or worn-out bolts and anchors, ensuring the longevity of our favourite climbs.

How you can get involved:

Are you a route developer? Learn how to apply for reimbursement for your essential gear by reading our Bolt Fund Initiative Overview. We’re also launching a new way for you to Report Bad Bolts! If you see hardware on a route that needs some attention, and feel ill equipped to remedy it yourself, report it to us!

Love safe climbing? Consider becoming an OAC annual member or donate directly to support this important initiative.

Let’s work together to protect our climbing future!

This is a great opportunity to ask questions about our organization and to share input on our future direction. We’ll also be holding the election for board membership, talking about recent developments, and speaking about what’s on the horizon.

Details for the virtual meeting will be announced October 24 via official email to all OAC members.

If you would like to run as a candidate for the board of directors, please submit your bio to info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca by end of day October 22 in order to have your bio included with the formal meeting announcement. You may also submit your name for the election during the meeting on November 7th.

Hope to see you all there!

Also, it’s that time of year again!

Photo submissions for the 2024 Ontario Crags Calendar are now OPEN!!

We’re looking for a variety of photos showcasing the diversity of Ontario climbing: different crags, different people, different seasons, different disciplines (ice, trad, sport, AND bouldering!). Show us what you got!

Submissions are open until the end of the month, closing at midnight on October 31. Send your photos to submissions@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca. All entered photos will be subject to the full Terms of Submission, found below:

We’re asking you to write David Piccini, Ontario’s Minister of Environment, Conservation and Parks, as well as your local MPP.

Tell them to allow Ontarians to rock climb in our provincial parks! By doing so, they will help boost tourism, expand recreational opportunities, and collaboratively conserve and care for nature with the community.

Use our pre-written forms found at the campaign site, or copy and paste to send it directly from your own email for a greater impact.

We need EVERYONE on board for this. Fill it out, get everyone you know who climbs to fill it out, and then ask your friends and family to speak up on your behalf! We’ve made it as easy as possible for them to send a letter in just a few minutes.

Make sure you CC climbinparks@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca on your email if you send it on your own! It’ll help us keep track of how many letters go out. We’ll also be raffling off prizes to campaign participants, and your CC’ed email will be your proof of participation!

Don’t wait, send an email now!

Join us this Wednesday, June 7th, at 7pm to hear all about the current state of affairs at Devil’s Glen, and about our campaign to #SaveClimbingAtDG.

We’ll present some preliminary findings from our Economic Impact of Climbers survey. We received a total of 1644 responses — a phenomenal result, thank you everyone! We’ll also share the bigger plan, which will involve more action from YOU

Other Recent Updates:

Last week, on May 31, the OAC met with Ontario Parks.

We voiced our concerns regarding the lack of communication or consultation concerning climbing at Devil’s Glen, and emphasized that we maintain SIGNIFICANT concerns regarding access, including the basis for their recent decisions.

Ontario Parks has not yet provided the requested scientific information supporting the closure.

We provided them with the latest ecological studies regarding climbing on the Niagara Escarpment which support rock climbing as a recreational activity. These studies propose that climbing can be supported sustainably by land managers while achieving preservation goals.

Study 1: Kuntz, Larson — Influences of microhabitat constraints and rock-climbing disturbance on cliff-face vegetation communities

Study 2: Sommer — Rock Climbing and Talus Vegetation on the Niagara Escarpment: Impacts and Management Implementations

We also raised concerns about mountain bike trail closures in neighbouring Pretty Valley as additional evidence of Ontario Park “limiting recreational resources” to specific user groups.

Emphasizing that a restrictive approach to climbing is misaligned with approaches taken by their Canadian, U.S. and European conservation and management peers, we maintained that the current policy will not lead to their desired conservation outcomes.

Ontario Parks has agreed to review the signage and consider possible alternatives to achieving their ecological goals, and to discuss these with the OAC.

They have confirmed their desire to work with the climbing community towards achieving a balance that includes climbing in some form within Devil’s Glen.

Ontario Parks recognizes that the current situation at Devil’s Glen and their lack of communication with the OAC did not benefit either party. Both Ontario Parks and the OAC are committed to working together in an open and transparent manner going forward.

This is your opportunity to hear from us about the latest news concerning Devil’s Glen, and to learn about what’s to come. As with previous Town Halls, registration will open closer to the date, but it will be held online so as to be as accessible as possible.

Also, if you haven’t yet filled out our Economic Impact of Climbing survey, please do so NOW! The survey window is only open until Wednesday May 31st. Your responses will help us advocate for the importance climbing has on our greater community.

Complete the survey NOW!