The amendment to the Devil’s Glen Provincial Park Management Plan has officially been approved!

This is a major milestone — not just for climbing access, but for how outdoor recreation and conservation can work together. The updated plan includes policies to formally authorize and manage rock climbing in the park, creating a path forward for safe, sustainable access. This is a big step forward, and it sets an important precedent for climbing in provincial parks across Ontario.

This outcome reflects years of work and being a good partner with Ontario Parks, the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks, and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC). It’s also a testament to the climbing community’s commitment to stewardship, safety, and respect for the environment.

We’re excited for what comes next! The OAC looks forward to continuing to work alongside Ontario Parks to support implementation — through education, stewardship, and responsible use.

Thank you to everyone who contributed, supported, and stayed engaged throughout this process. Your actions have had a direct effect on climbing access in Ontario!

More details to come soon. You can read up on the decision details at the official ERO page.

Congratulations, climbers! The Ontario Ministry of Environment, Conservation and Parks (MECP) has heard your voices. Thanks to your letters and advocacy, they are proposing an amendment to the Devil’s Glen Provincial Park Management Plan that would formally recognize rock climbing at DG.

Amendment ERO 019_8238 is a massive milestone and a direct result of our collective action. The proposed amendment is open for public comment until September 19, 2025. Supportive comments are a vital part of the approval process — we need every climber to act now.

What You Can Do:

1. Click here to visit the Environmental Registry website for Amendment 019-8238 (ERO 019-8238).
2. Read the amendment overview—it’s short and accessible.
3. Use your voice! Tell the Ministry why climbing matters to you.
   You can mention:
   • Your experiences at Devil’s Glen
   • Your commitment to conservation
   • Why you support a balanced approach to recreation
   • Looking for more ideas and examples? Check out ClimbInParks.ca for some suggestions!
4. Hit “Submit.” That’s it. You’ve made a difference!

Your comment becomes part of the public record — and part of the decision-making process. Don’t underestimate the power of showing up. Everyone should comment: you don’t have to be a climber in order to have an opinion on this. Ask your friends and family to support you and your fight for access! Ask your neighbours to share their thoughts on balanced conservancy. Tell your out-of-town belay partners that they can help secure access to climbing in Ontario for their future visits.

Devil’s Glen is just the beginning. Amendment ERO 019-8238 lays the groundwork for partnerships with Ontario Parks that could open the door to more climbing opportunities across the province. A collaborative path forward starts here—with climbers supporting conservation while advocating for responsible access.

When you comment on this amendment, you’re not just protecting access at DG. You’re helping create a model that could support climbing at other provincial parks in the future. Let’s build this future together.

Support climbing in provincial parks.

We’re asking you to write David Piccini, Ontario’s Minister of Environment, Conservation and Parks, as well as your local MPP.

Tell them to allow Ontarians to rock climb in our provincial parks! By doing so, they will help boost tourism, expand recreational opportunities, and collaboratively conserve and care for nature with the community.

Use our pre-written forms found at the campaign site, or copy and paste to send it directly from your own email for a greater impact.

We need EVERYONE on board for this. Fill it out, get everyone you know who climbs to fill it out, and then ask your friends and family to speak up on your behalf! We’ve made it as easy as possible for them to send a letter in just a few minutes.

Make sure you CC climbinparks@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca on your email if you send it on your own! It’ll help us keep track of how many letters go out. We’ll also be raffling off prizes to campaign participants, and your CC’ed email will be your proof of participation!

Don’t wait, send an email now!

Join us this Wednesday, June 7th, at 7pm to hear all about the current state of affairs at Devil’s Glen, and about our campaign to #SaveClimbingAtDG.

We’ll present some preliminary findings from our Economic Impact of Climbers survey. We received a total of 1644 responses — a phenomenal result, thank you everyone! We’ll also share the bigger plan, which will involve more action from YOU

Other Recent Updates:

Last week, on May 31, the OAC met with Ontario Parks.

We voiced our concerns regarding the lack of communication or consultation concerning climbing at Devil’s Glen, and emphasized that we maintain SIGNIFICANT concerns regarding access, including the basis for their recent decisions.

Ontario Parks has not yet provided the requested scientific information supporting the closure.

We provided them with the latest ecological studies regarding climbing on the Niagara Escarpment which support rock climbing as a recreational activity. These studies propose that climbing can be supported sustainably by land managers while achieving preservation goals.

Study 1: Kuntz, Larson — Influences of microhabitat constraints and rock-climbing disturbance on cliff-face vegetation communities

Study 2: Sommer — Rock Climbing and Talus Vegetation on the Niagara Escarpment: Impacts and Management Implementations

We also raised concerns about mountain bike trail closures in neighbouring Pretty Valley as additional evidence of Ontario Park “limiting recreational resources” to specific user groups.

Emphasizing that a restrictive approach to climbing is misaligned with approaches taken by their Canadian, U.S. and European conservation and management peers, we maintained that the current policy will not lead to their desired conservation outcomes.

Ontario Parks has agreed to review the signage and consider possible alternatives to achieving their ecological goals, and to discuss these with the OAC.

They have confirmed their desire to work with the climbing community towards achieving a balance that includes climbing in some form within Devil’s Glen.

Ontario Parks recognizes that the current situation at Devil’s Glen and their lack of communication with the OAC did not benefit either party. Both Ontario Parks and the OAC are committed to working together in an open and transparent manner going forward.

This is your opportunity to hear from us about the latest news concerning Devil’s Glen, and to learn about what’s to come. As with previous Town Halls, registration will open closer to the date, but it will be held online so as to be as accessible as possible.

Also, if you haven’t yet filled out our Economic Impact of Climbing survey, please do so NOW! The survey window is only open until Wednesday May 31st. Your responses will help us advocate for the importance climbing has on our greater community.

Complete the survey NOW!

The 2023 Economic Impact of Climbers in Ontario survey was live until May 31. Thanks to the 1645 people who responded! We’re looking to better understand the impact of climbers on the local economy.

Click here to fill it out now!

It will take only 3 minutes to complete.
Share the link with friends, get everyone you know who’s climbed in Ontario to fill it out!
Survey closes Wednesday May 31. Once closed, we’ll share the results.

More to come, this is just the start. We’ll still need your help in the coming weeks!

IMPORTANT ACCESS UPDATE

There have been 10 signs posted at Devil’s Glen (6 at the top of the cliff, and 4 at the bottom of the cliff). The signs state ‘Protection Area / No Rock Climbing Here to Next Sign’, and were first noticed on Thursday May 11.

The signs span the climbs between Morning Star and the easy way down on climbers’ right, only on Ontario Parks managed land. Routes from Nutcracker to the west are not affected and not in park boundaries.

The Ontario Parks signs appeared without warning. Late Friday May 12, the OAC received both voicemail and email responses from our inquiries to Ontario Parks confirming that the new signage at Devil’s Glen is official, and was placed by their regional ecologist.

This is extremely disappointing. The OAC has been in regular meetings with Ontario Parks. We have repeatedly requested science-based evidence supporting any potential closures, and were informed by OP that a list of affected routes would be provided to us prior to any changes. We have received no such information.

Ontario Parks has repeatedly stated that they wish to work “collaboratively with the ON climbing community” — but these recent events run to the contrary. We are taking this violation of the terms of our proposed communications framework very seriously. Unilateral action of this nature is deeply concerning for the climbing community, and should be of grave concern for ALL recreation-based user groups.

We’re in the process of building a strategy to counter the recent closure by Ontario Parks of climbing routes at Devil’s Glen. We’ve requested the results of the environmental survey which Ontario Parks based their decision off of, and they have told us we can expect to receive the results before the end of the month.

Here’s what you can expect from us over the next two weeks:

• We’ll be sending out a survey on the economic impact of climbing in Ontario. Keep an eye open for it and be sure to fill it out!
• Patagonia Toronto will be hosting a screening of Stone Locals on May 25th — and we’ll be there! Come visit our table and talk to us in person.
• We’ll be holding a town hall in early June (date TBD). This will be an important meeting for everyone concerned about the future of climbing at Devil’s Glen.

What can YOU do right NOW?

Stay up to date as we share news. Join the OAC if you’re not a member yet! And help us SPREAD THE WORD. Repost and share our messages to your socials. Tell your friends. Make sure *everyone* you climb with is aware of what’s going on.

Because this goes beyond Devil’s Glen. This has the potential to affect climbing access throughout all of Ontario.

#AllowClimbingAtDG

• Do not engage if you are approached by individuals while parking/leaving/arriving at your vehicle unless they can provide proof of OPP, By-law or similar credentials
• Do not engage if you are approached/questioned by other park users unless that individual is able to provide proof of Ontario Parks, MNR or similar credentials
• Do not leave valuables in your car while climbing
• Keep your personal belongings near you at all times
• Be sure to assess the bolts & anchors on each climb before & during climbing
• Take extra caution to assess the climbing up to the first bolt & use a stick clip if necessary to protect the moves to the first available bolt
• Continue to be great climbing ambassadors, respecting the space and fellow park users when out at the crag
• In the event of an emergency, call 911 
• The non-emergency OPP telephone number is: 1-888-310-1122
• Please share any information with the OAC that may be related to this ongoing situation

Over the winter, the OAC became aware that a party had filled the gully descent to Devil’s Glen with deadfall collected from the area. As a result, climbers organized a clean up to remove the deadfall from the gully. This happened again a short time later.

After clearing the gully for the second time, the team went out for a midweek site visit and noted that the perpetrator(s) had returned and filled the gully for a third time. The volunteers left their belongings at the top of the gully while they worked to clear it. When the team returned to the top of the gully, they noted one of the volunteer’s backpacks had been stolen.

The volunteers searched the park for the thief and missing bag. They eventually found the bag approximately 200 feet away; it had been thrown into the forest on the section of trail east of the approach back to Highway 124. After finding the bag, the volunteers hiked back out to the highway and walked along the 124, visiting each house in an attempt to talk to locals and see if they had witnessed any suspicious activity. The volunteers noted fresh footsteps in the snow leading out of the park and east along highway 124. The first homeowner did not appear to be home. As they stepped onto the driveway of the second home, they were immediately greeted by a woman screaming at them “You’re trespassing, get off my property”. 

Unfortunately, the theft was not resolved. The volunteers did not opt to call the police at the time as they were unclear if it would be considered theft after the bag had been found.

Weeks later, after the wintery weather had cleared, the volunteers returned on a Saturday to find the gully had once again been filled. The team removed the brush again, and returned for a site visit on Wednesday. To no surprise, the gully had been filled again, but volunteers did not have time to remove the brush during this site check. Upon leaving the area, a volunteer drove along 124 and saw a homeowner standing in their driveway, filming him as he drove by.

On April 12th, climbers visited Devil’s Glen once again in hopes of enjoying a few routes during the nice weather before clearing the brush from the gully. However, when they reached the cliff they found the first bolt had been chopped off several routes spanning the MNR & Ontario Park boundary. On six routes, the first hanger was removed and the bolts had been chopped off with an angle grinder. In our assessment the culprit(s) appears to have done this work with a ladder from the ground up. Therefore, it is unlikely the responsible party has any climbing knowledge. Affected routes include: 

• Unnamed unclimbed project (10 metres left of Wave)
• Outlier
• Wave of the Future (open, unclimbed project)
• Hyperion
• Face that launched a thousand sighs
• Morning Star (first two bolts affected)

Upon leaving Devil’s Glen, the climbers noted freshly scribed “F U” written in the gravel at the trailhead at Highway 124.

We feel this is an escalation of anti-climbing mischief likely perpetrated by the same party responsible for filling the gully, stealing the volunteer’s bag and disrupting at least 5 tonnes of natural deadfall. These recent developments also confirm the OAC’s suspicion that the responsible party is stalking/monitoring climbers during their visits.

The OAC reminds climbers that climbing access at Devil’s Glen continues to be tolerated by Ontario Parks as a permitted historical use. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers meets regularly with Ontario Parks staff representing the entire region including Devil’s Glen to maintain an open line of communication. The access status at Devil’s Glen has not changed.

The OAC has notified Ontario Parks & the Ontario Provincial Police of these concerning events.

We encourage all climbers to report any suspicious activity to us & if you are approached aggressively by anyone in the park or surrounding area, or experience a theft or damage to your property, please call the police. 

In the event of an emergency, call 911. 

The non-emergency OPP line is: 1-888-310-1122.

We will continue to monitor the situation and update the community as needed.

The OAC has contacted Ontario Parks to obtain an official statement on these new enforcement measures. Until we receive a formal statement, we will not acknowledge a change in access status to this public land. Climbing at Devil’s Glen is considered Tolerated and climbers have long been great ambassadors for this beautiful area.

Climbers are encouraged to continue climbing at Devil’s Glen in the meantime. If you encounter park staff and are asked to move, please obtain the contact information of the staff member and provide them with the OAC’s email address (info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca). If you are threatened with a ticket, please ask them to clarify what the exact offence is and the amount of the fine. If you encounter park staff or local homeowners, please be respectful and provide details of your encounter to the OAC as soon as possible.

Thank you for your support as we work towards resolution.