This message has been issued in response to unauthorized route development which recently occurred at Kelso (a Conservation Halton Park), including a retro-bolt of Alan’s Layback (5.7 trad), as well as the establishment of additional sport climbs.

Conservation Halton (CH) is the land manager of Kelso, Mount Nemo, and Rattlesnake Point. The access plan established with the OAC and the climbing community requires CH authorization for any development or maintenance occurring in their parks – whether it be new route development, tree cutting, trail building, or retro-bolting of existing routes.

This recent route development at Kelso was done without authorization. CH has decided that these unauthorized routes will be removed and requested the OAC facilitate their removal. The bolts from Alan’s Layback and another new route have already been removed by volunteers.

The OAC and CH have an excellent working relationship that allows for the climbing we enjoy in their parks. It is very rare that land managers are as supportive of climbing as CH has been. When the OAC has discussions with land managers, we often reference our relationship with CH because of their tremendous support of the climbing community and strong partnership.

To maintain this access in Conservation Halton Parks, we must adhere to the terms of the access plan. That means if there is a desire to establish new routes, or a need to alter the environment and/or make any climbing hardware alterations, you must reach out to the OAC first. CH trusts the OAC’s judgment, and is more than happy to consider any reasonable proposal we present.

The Spring Fling is a day spent contributing to crag maintenance and strengthening our relationship with Conservation Halton.  We’ll spend the morning picking up trash, celebrate our hard work with lunch, and then spend the afternoon climbing.  Register now to participate in this day of giving back to the climbing community!

Sunday, May 3rd, we’ll be picking up trash at two crags just like last year – Rattlesnake Point, and Mount Nemo!

Come join us in this day of giving back, meet some new climbing friends, and enjoy the sunshine!  This event is open to all ages — and yes, we can sign volunteer forms for anyone trying to log volunteer hours  Register now so we can get your name on the list and account for your free volunteer lunch!

Most importantly, please remember that the addition of any permanent climbing hardware, creation of new routes, or modification of existing routes (or altering of/tampering with existing hardware) is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of CH. Should you have recommendations on routes or hardware installation, please contact the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) so that we can contact our partners at CH and discuss potential changes. Existing worn-out hardware which poses a safety risk may either be replaced or maintained, but new bolting on managed land requires land manager permission. You can report bad bolts online through our Report a Bad Bolt page, and we will ensure that this information reaches the appropriate people.

We address this matter following the discovery of recently added hardware that were installed without proper permissions. These actions can lead to the creation of unmanageable and possibly unsafe routes that could be detrimental to the environment and our climbing community.

CH is a valued partner to the climbing community and one of our best models for relationships with land managers. CH openly supports rock climbing at some of their parks — including many crags you’re familiar with such as Mount Nemo, Kelso, Rattlesnake Point, Bottle Glass and Buffalo Crag.

As good ambassadors for the outdoors, please climb responsibly and respect the land and its managers. CH works hard to protect these spaces for everyone’s enjoyment. Climbers can help by staying on established trails and climbing routes, minimizing their impact. CH staff are responsible for trail maintenance and site care. If you see a fallen tree or other vegetation hazard, please let us know so that we can request that it be addressed.

Thank you for helping protect access, preserve the environment, and keep our community safe!